![]() ![]() 3DF Zephyr (free edition) with 3DF Masquerade (included).It is significantly longer but for higher details models, it is worth it! Masquerade is a tool included into 3DF Zephyr free, which lets you identify the model's contour directly to obtain improved results or unlock the situation when the direct method described in the first post isn't working. For those interested I can provide the code & circuit. The latter has 2 submodes, 30 or 20 steps so that bigger models can have 2 series (model-height and high-than-model-height). It also controls a servo which should be rigged to the camera to take pictures automatically but I didn't have the materials to fix it properly so I clicked the camera buttons by hand! The basic mode is 360° continuous, with the camera taking a video of the rotation for larger models (chariots for instance) however this causes the parts further away from the center to be blurred due to the rotation, so for that there is a stepper mode where a picture is taken at each stop. Optionnal: I made a rotating plate by sticking a round base on a stepper motor driven by an Arduino board running a home-made code. Tip #2: In this guide with 3DF Zephyr free only 50 pictures can be processed per project, so plan the rotation angle between each picture accordingly! Instead of taking pictures, it is also possible to shoot a video but that requires to use a rotating plate.ġ.5. So far I only took a single camera position, slightly higher than the model to also cover the upper area - but on larger models (giant!) it is actually better to make a first pass at model height, and a second from a higher camera position to make sure all parts of the model are covered.ġ.4. Tip #1: You need to take pictures from all angles of your models (360°). Personnally I use a camera on tripod, with all settings (aperture/shutter/ISO/focus) on manual.ġ.3. You need something (phone, camera) to take pictures of the model along a circle, ideally covering each part of the model. Optionnal: I made myself a lightbox out of standard blank A4 paper taped together, and I stick my desk/painting lamp on the upper face to make a cheap diffuse light.ġ.2. Camera tripod or similar fixture (or any base with correct height that isn't risky for your phone or camera)ġ.1.Light box (I made one out of paper taped together on which I apply a desk lamp).Rotating plate (mine is homemade using an arduino board, stepper motor and a warmachine round base).The physical model that will enter the numeric world.Without further ado, here is the step-by-step procedure I used - it might not be the best and don't hesitate to let me know if I can improve anything! I have now uploaded one entry for each of my painted units, so for instance for EOS Heavy Infantry I have each of the command group options + 1 halberdier + 1 swordsman, which I can then duplicate to build virtual armies. ![]() I personnally also use Arduino for the hardware part but don't delve into details here nor is it mandatory. This is the only mandatory non-free software of this guide, other softwares I recommend and use here are 3DF Zephyr (free edition) and Blender. The objective of this first tutorial is to let you upload your own models onto TableTop Simulator. Import the reworked model(s) into Tabletop Simulator if the model had been sliced, assemble & bind them to recreate the full model save the final object and it's done! obj into Blender, orient it, rescale and finally decimate if this creates too much loss, slice into several parts export the reworked model(s)ĥ. Import pictures & masks into 3DF Zephyr (free), generate model. Import pictures into 3DF Masquerade, create mask for eachģ. Take pictures of the finished (painted & assembled) model (30 pictures, 360° at model height + 20 pictures, 360° from above at a 45° angle)Ģ. Workflow : I put it there for anyone to easily find if needed:ġ.
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